Saturday, October 8, 2011

New found love... for Eldo...

Climbed in Eldorado Canyon this past weekend...yep, both days Saturday and Sunday..And yes I didn't go to Lumpy Ridge for once...With the seasons changing in Boulder I felt like it was about time to give Eldo a visit again..So I decided to climb at my favorite crag..Peanuts..In the shade all day.! On Saturday I climbed with my friend Marc, a Avid 4 instructor who I worked with this past summer..With this being his first time climbing in Eldorado Canyon I decided to take him up the super classic StarWars 5.8, and Your Basic Layback 5.6 located on the Lower Peanuts wall.. on Sunday Laurie Dallenbach and myself went  to Upper Peanuts and climbed Heavy Weather 5.9.. Excellent 4 pitch crack climb! on our way out I decided to school myself on Trouble and Strife a 5.10d angling crack climb...It starts as super thin finger tips crack and widens to hands and then off width hands through a diagional crack..Really fun climbing..Enjoy the pics!!

                  View of Redgarden Wall and the eastern plains of Boulder from Upper Peanuts..

                                                                 Leading Star Wars 5.8

                                             Marc on the final moves of Your Basic Layback 5.6

                             Marc on Cornered 5.9.. A great way to finish up Your Basic Layback...

                                         Marc, finishing strong in those perfect finger locks..

                                   Laurie enjoying the final crack pitch of Heavy Weather 5.9

                         Laurie with some big exposure that makes climbing in Eldorado Canyon so awesome

                     Beautiful views from Upper Peanuts Wall..Looking west toward the Indian Peaks

Trouble and Strife 5.10d... Sewed up nicely but definitely hard to place gear from very balancy and strenuous stances..Hence the name of the route! Id love to go back and get it clean. After I top roped it I felt like I figured out the crux move sequence..Just need to place less gear next time and just punch it when the crack splits right..After that its maybe 5.9+ but feels harder due to pump factor...

Laurie gettin into a little Trouble and Strife...

Thanks Marc and  Laurie for such a sweet weekend of climbing in Eldo...


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