Friday, July 30, 2010

The Ten Essentials

Ventured back up to RMNP last week with Aaron Miller to climb a lesser known route on Spearhead 12,575. called, The Ten Essentials III 8+ . The route starts with the first three pitches of the more popular Sykes sickle 9+ and then veers right into some broken flakes and cracks for the remaining 2 pitches to the ridge crest. The route pretty much runs parallel to the barb flake formation, at one point climbing behind the huge hanging flake of "the barb". Exciting old school 5.8 climbing at about 12,000 ft, with the crux coming at the end of the route. We then finished with the last 2 pitches of the North Ridge. A nice long day car to car..




About 6am almost to Spearhead which is the large spiked buttress in the background....





The 800 ft. east face of Spearhead.....




Aaron Miller following the 1st pitch....



Aaron starting the 2nd pitch. The route moves right toward the end of this quite run-out slab pitch, over to the hanging flakes and corners seen above Aaron to the right....


Good view of the upper pitches. The crux pitch climbs beneath the HUGE hanging flakes of The barb. Sweet stemming and lay-backing throughout the climb...










West side of Longs Peak and the Keyboard of the winds looking over your shoulder the whole climb...




Aaron following the crux pitch.....



Pull'in the crux...The look of excitement, or concern on Aarons face??



Looking down the last 2 pitches of the North ridge and the top of the barb flake.....I combined these last 2 easy pitches due threatening weather....









Aaron eating candy soon after finishing the climb....Spearhead's summit seen in the background... The weather still holding... Sweet views of McHenrys peak and stoneman pass from the Spearhead summit...Awesome climb!!!



Peace, Jason























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